North of South Island

In the north of the South Island there is a number of really nice hiking tracks. Most of them are not too difficult to walk, but all of them are very beautiful. The most famous of them is probably the Able Tasman Track starting in Motueka and leading over into the Golden Bay area. I found that this track is best avoided during the holiday season unless you want to be accompanied on the track by hundereds of other tourists. This track ist best done off season.

Another very popular track is the Heaphy Track which starts in the Golden Bay and leads to the West coast. As this track crosses the mountains it’s a little more strenuous than the Able Tasman but when you come out on the West Coast the views are amazing. During the hike you walk through a variety of different vegetation zones starting with rather dry beech forest and leading you right into large stands of Nikau palms once you get to the west coast.

Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds are situated in the north-east of the South Island. From here one can catch the ferry across the Cook Strait to get to the North Island.

Our last day before we set across to Wellington by ferry we stayed in a backpackers calles “The Juggelers Rest”. Here artists and juggelers practise their skills during the day and if you are as lucky as we were they make an in-promptu performance in the evening. Very different backpackers but highly recommended!

The Heaphy Track

The camp grounds on the Heaphy Track are rather basic and so are the huts. The advantage of this track is that there are usually much less people walking it than the Able Tasman. If you want your peace and quiet and still not hike in the deepest forest without any tracks or huts, this is the track to choose. I saw many rare species of plants and animals there. One highlight was a species of sundew, a carnicorous plant that grew just a few meters from the first hut and another one was a Weka, a flightless and very curious bird.

After heavy westerly winds the coast is full of driftwood. Large trees, branches and roots are swept on the shore alike. I would not want to be out here in a heavy storm!

This picture shows me walking under Nikau palms on the Heaphy track. This is the last day of the 4 day hike through (almost) untouched wilderness. From here it’s just another 3 hours to the place where a shuttle bus will pick me up and carry me back to Motueka in the Tasman Bay. Here on the west coast, just a few hunderd meters from the open sea you find tree ferns, wild orchids (not the tropical species, though). Moss and lichens hang from fallen and from living trees like giant green beards.

Cape Farewell

Cape Farewell is the northernmost point of the South Island. To me the cape looks a bit like I always imagined that Ireland would look like. Never been to Ireland, though.

Rolling, green hills, a few grazing sheep, a rough breeze in the air and quiet except for the never ceasing sound of the sea. That’s what Cape Farewell was to me. I visited it when I had just finished my PhD at the Otago University and I was grateful for the bit of peace and quiet after months of frenzied work to finish my thesis.

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